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Our Motto: Home is, where our RV is.
Travel Journal April 2009
Area of operation
Travel Journal April 2009 (begins at Fool Hollow Lake State Park near Show Low, AZ)
April 2009 was quite an eventful month for us!
As usual on April 2nd, we celebrated our wedding anniversary. This was number 41! As requested, Chuck received
German pancakes for breakfast. We were somewhat out in the boondocks and had no desire to go out and
celebrate, so we stayed home and had Sauerbraten, which Renée had been marinating for several days. That
afternoon Chuck fell over a piece of concrete, injuring his knee, hand and foot, which resulted in severe bruising and
pain for several days. Fortunately, we had no plans to go anywhere that day.
The following day we left Fool Hollow Lake via Show Low, Holbrook and I-40 to Winslow, AZ where we spent three
days at Homolovi Ruins State Park, making a few excursions from there. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a
sandstorm and winds so strong that we decided to leave the slide-outs retracted and to make a trip into Winslow
until the wind subsided. That evening we had leftover sauerbraten for supper, which is always as good as it is when
freshly made. The park had not yet turned on the water since they were still experiencing freezing temperatures
at night. We had to rely on the internal fresh water tank while we were there. Therefore, not as much dish washing
and cooking were possible.
On the 4th we took a trip to the Petrified Forest and the Painted Desert, east of Holbrook (see travel route and
photos). Unfortunately, the wind and overcast sky caused the photos to be somewhat bland and failed to reflect
the true beauty of these natural wonders. On the way home we had supper in Holbrook at the Butterfield Stage
Company Steakhouse.
The following morning greeted us with a cloudless sky and a clear view of San Francisco Peak (12,670 ft) with snow
on top (see photos). Chuck used the good weather to accomplish the task of rotating the RV tires. That afternoon
we visited the site of Homolovi II Ruins, the best of several excavations in the area. Others were either not open
to the public, not much to see, or the ruins had been covered back up after exploration in order to preserve the
site. Go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Homolovi_Ruins_State_Park for an interesting description and history of
the ruins.
After the ruins, we drove to Winslow to photograph its most famous corner (see photos). If you don’t know what
we are talking about, see this link http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Take_It_Easy.
The following day we packed up and left Homolovi State Park, north on AZ 97 through the Hopi Reservation until
Second Mesa (see photos) and from there, east into the Navajo Reservation, then north on US 191 to Chinle at the
mouth of the Canyon de Chelly (pronounced dəshā'). The Cottonwood campground is administered by the National
Park Service and is free but quite primitive. Only one water faucet in the entire campground was available for
drinking water. Toilets were available but no shower facilities. Each parking spot had a picnic table and a fire pit.
There were no hook-ups so we ran the generator and used the fresh water tank for the maximum allowed stay of
five days that we were there, with the water having been depleted on the last day. Near us was the group site and
playground where the Indian school had an Easter egg hunt on the Thursday before Easter. A neighbor of ours was
a German man with his son who was on a four week tour of the different canyons in the southwest (Grand Canyon,
Bryce Canyon, Canyon de Chelly, etc.) A large percentage of the campground visitors were German and Swiss,
either in rented Class C motor homes or in vehicles that they brought from Europe.
After a cool first night, we began our tour with the visitor’s center, where we learned that high winds were
expected the following day, so we tanked up and toured the south part of the canyon rim (see photos). The
following day we toured the museum, watched a short film, and then went to the Thunderbird Lodge, where we had
a small snack of Indian Fry Bread. We then visited a few gift shops but the wind outside was so strong that we
gave up and went back to the RV.
On Thursday the weather was much calmer so we made the trip on a steep trail down the canyon wall. This 2 ½ mile
trail is the only way a tourist can visit the canyon floor without a Navajo guide. Renée had some difficulty on the trail
(particularly on the return trip) since she has vertigo symptoms in high, steep places. But through sheer willpower
she overcame it!
On the canyon floor, the trail goes past a traditional Navajo Hogan and cultivated fields that are irrigated from the
Chinle Wash (pictures of this hogan were forbidden). The trail crosses the wash to the other side of the canyon,
where the White House ruins are located (see photos).
As can be found at most points of interest in the park, the local artists were selling their creations. The Navajo
women were preparing lunch over an open fire and Renée stopped and talked with them while Chuck continued on to
the ruins. After Renée caught up, we sat and had our lunch that we had brought. We were the only visitors, sat in
front of the ruins in this sunny, peaceful place and enjoyed it.
White House Ruins is a cliff dwelling built around 1250 years ago. Its name comes from several of the houses that
appear to have been whitewashed (see photos).
As we were leaving, two converted troop transport vehicles came up the canyon. They were filled with the lazy
tourists that would/could not take the hike down the canyon wall (see photos). As we walked past the Navajo lady
who had been cooking, Renée asked how their lunch had been. The lady offered each of us the freshly made fry
bread, then verbally gave us the recipe. It was really quite good!
We then began our trip back up the canyon wall. Renée had serious problems with the heights and it caused her to
take it very slowly with several interruptions, but eventually she won the battle. We then drove to Chinle where we
had earlier seen a flea market that we wanted to visit. We were quite shocked to see several stands openly selling
counterfeit DVDs. Apparently, such laws are not being enforced on the reservation.
On Friday, we took a day trip to Fort Defiance and Window Rock (see photos) and to Gallup on the New Mexico
side. On the way, we stopped at the Hubbell Trading Post, a national historic site (see photos). We had also planned
to visit the Black Rock Natural Bridge but after not finding it we inquired at a gas station and were informed that it
has been closed to the public for several years. We later found out that it is possible to take a Navajo-guided tour
but that would have required a long return trip and we were leaving the following morning anyway.
When we returned, we discovered that the fresh water tank was empty so we had to carry water to wash the
dishes. We were also almost out of propane. As we departed Chinle the following morning, we filled up the tanks
and headed toward Shiprock, NM.
Life on an Indian reservation is somewhat different. Animals tend to graze anywhere there is something to eat.
Horses, cows, goats and sheep graze on the side of the road, even in town at intersections! Cats and dogs also run
free.
We found the Indian people to be very friendly but also encountered many “artists” trying to sell their goods.
Several times when we informed them that we were not interested in their wares, they turned into beggars. After
quickly realizing that we could not afford to give something every time we were approached, we had to be firm but
friendly about it. Once, as we stopped between Chinle and Shiprock, we were approached by a man who started a
friendly conversation but as we started to leave, he turned into a beggar. When we politely informed him that we
only had so much to give and had nothing more to give, he said he understood but then seeing Renée’s bottle of tea,
he asked if he could have it. He truthfully needed it and was quite thankful!
When we arrived in Shiprock (still on the reservation), we stayed at the To’Bahi RV Park. It was a private park, not
very nice but had full hook-ups. This gave us the opportunity to catch up on the laundry.
Next to us was a small trailer where a young Indian couple lived with a small young dog. Lobo tried to visit but we
stopped him since the dog appeared to be sick and with Lobo’s age, he is prone to all types of things. The man was
interested in Lobo and asked about his breed, etc. Renée spoke with him and it was apparent that the man was
retarded. Shortly thereafter, he appeared at our door wanted to sell his artistic wares. After complementing him
on the beauty of the jewelry but declining, he probably would have switched to begging, given the chance. But
Renée excused herself quickly and said she had to get back to her cooking.
On Easter Sunday, we drove to the Four Corners Monument (see photos), driving around the monument once so we
can now say that we drove through four states in less than 30 seconds! On the return trip we took a diversion
through Colorado and then back to Shiprock Peak (see photos).
The following morning we left Shiprock. Interesting to note, that although Shiprock has a population of 8156 (2000
census) and has tourist attractions nearby and is also on a major crossroads, it does not have any motels or hotels.
The only possibility of staying overnight is at the campground. Before we left, we gave the people with the small
dog, a supply of antibiotics that we purchased in Mexico for Lobo and no longer needed. We were quite certain that
he had distemper and they were too poor to take him to a vet. There was a humane society in Shiprock but it had a
sign that it was closed until further notice.
Between Shiprock and Farmington, we left the Navajo reservation. Next stop: Navajo Lake State Park, northeast
of Farmington, NM. We arrived at the Cottonwood Campground shortly before 6 PM. We found ourselves in a
beautiful valley along the San Juan River, but without cell phone coverage; and where FedEx and UPS would not
deliver. It is a few miles down the river from the Navajo Dam and is primarily a fishing spot. Although it was
secluded and beautiful, we decided to spend only one night and to move to the main campground along the lake,
where there was mail delivery and UPS would deliver to us. It had been several weeks since we had received mail
and we needed to receive a few packages. The campground is not as picturesque as Cottonwood and the sites are
much smaller, but it sits on a cliff overlooking the lake and except for the weekend visitors, it would suit our needs.
The first evening Renée took Lobo to the lake and he had a good time in the water. The up-hill return trip was
somewhat difficult with his arthritis. Chuck made a campfire and we had grilled cod for supper.
The following evening we had quite an experience with Lobo. He likes to spend the evening outside and we normally
let him stay out, hooked up on a 12-foot leash until we go to bed. At 11 PM, Chuck went outside to get him. Chuck
unhooked him and turned around to pick up a hose and roll it up. When he turned back around Lobo had wandered
into the dark, so Chuck walked over to the door and got the flashlight. He was nowhere to be seen. After
searching for about ten minutes, he got Renée and we both looked for about another 30 minutes. We were sitting
on a steep slope overlooking Navajo Lake and Renée suggested we both get our cell phones and she would walk
down the side of the hill/cliff to the water while Chuck continued to search the campground area. About ten
minutes later, she called to tell Chuck that she had found Lobo near the lake at the bottom of the cliff but he was
apparently injured and could not walk. He had heard her coming or saw the flashlight and sounded for help. Chuck
collected a poncho and some straps with the idea of carrying Lobo back, but after several attempts, we realized
that it was impossible so Chuck went for help. He went to the campground host (another RVer that works part time
for the park) and woke him up. By this time, it was after midnight. After some discussion, the man said that he
would drive the small garden tractor down a path to the lake and try to bring Lobo up in it. The back has a small
bed like a pickup. Chuck walked back down and signaled the man with the flashlight so he could locate us. Renée had
stayed with Lobo and had to signal Chuck with a flashlight so that he could find them again.
We forgot to mention that just as Lobo disappeared, it started to snow. By the time Chuck got back to them at the
lakeside, Lobo, now covered with the poncho, was also completely covered with snow. We got him in the tractor bed
and eventually made it back up the hill. At one point, we had to help push the tractor up the slope since it was so
steep. After getting Lobo into the RV, thanking the host and then trying to see what we could do for Lobo, we
discovered that he was completely embedded with cockle burrs. Chuck already knew that he himself was full of
them also but it was the least of the problems. We spent another hour trying to cut the burrs out of his coat but
eventually gave up and put him down to rest. The following morning we continued with the burrs and found that the
majority of his inability to walk was caused by the burrs that were even in the paws and were now bleeding. After
working most of the day, we had about 80-90% of the burrs cut out of his coat. Just to give you an idea, Chuck
removed 38 burrs from the top of just one of his socks that were exposed between the pants and shoes.
Apparently Lobo had fallen/stumbled/tumbled down the hill and couldn’t make it back up so he tried to go down
instead, making it worse when he hit the burr patches, until he was so entangled in them that he couldn’t move.
By the time this was over, it was almost 3 AM. Chuck has trouble winding down after such an event so it was at least
another two hours before he could sleep. Most of the following day was spent outside removing/cutting the burrs
from Lobo's coat.
Lobo has mostly recovered but he was weak for quite a while. One morning as he was taking a crap, he actually fell
over in the process: sad, but comical! He now has a somewhat unusual hair cut (see photos).
On Friday, we went to Farmington to go shopping. Through the host’s wife, we learned that he liked sweets, so we
bought a large box of Ghirardelli pralines, and presented them to him in Lobo’s name. He appeared quite
appreciative and we are certain it was sincere. A few days later Chuck got quite a laugh when he opened the
dumpster to empty the trash and there was the empty Ghirardelli box!
We spent the weekend and the first part of the week at the lake. Lobo needed his rest and we had enough small
things to accomplish while waiting for the delivery of our mail and several Internet orders.
On Wednesday, April 22nd, we took a day trip to Durango, CO and Mesa Verde National Park which is around 45
miles west of Durango. We also wanted to take a trip on the Durango Narrow Gauge Railroad to Silverton but we
discovered, that in the winter, there is only one trip daily in the morning and we had arrived in the afternoon. Since
this is an eight-hour trip on the train and dogs are not allowed, we also have the problem of what to do with Lobo,
since he cannot be left locked up in the truck for eight hours. We decided that we will make this excursion on one
of our future trips. Instead, we toured the old-town area of Durango, then for a walk in the park with Lobo. On the
way home, we stopped in the small town of Ignacio, CO and had rib eye steak with over-cooked vegetables at the
Patio Restaurant.
On Friday, UPS delivered our most recent acquisition, a camping freezer that runs on either normal house current
(120 v) or auto battery (12 v). Our normal RV refrigerator/freezer is quite small and we have often let
supermarket bargains slip by simply because we did not have the refrigerator/freezer storage space. We now
have more than double the freezing capacity.
The next day we visited the Aztec Ruins in Aztec, NM. The name is a misnomer caused by early settlers in the
area. These ruins are actually a part of the Anasazi culture. On the day we visited, Earth Day was being celebrated
with the theme “Learning from the Past and Taking Responsibility for the Future “. Lots of booths and stands
displayed ideas and concepts for recycling and/or addressed environmental issues. In the early afternoon, the
wind kicked up, causing many of them to pack up and leave. In New Mexico, “Gone with the Wind” is a common
occurrence. However, inside the museum, a university professor (full-blooded Navajo) was giving a lecture on the
Navajo lifestyle and spirituality. We sat and listened for a while but he spoke in such a low non-projecting voice that
we soon had to give up and toured the ruins (see photos).
On Sunday we tried to take a drive around Navajo Lake but soon found out that none of the roads led around it. We
then stopped to take a long walk with Lobo (see photos) and subsequently drove to Bloomfield where the Salmon
Ruins (also Anasazi) are located. Just as we arrived, they closed.
Except for a shopping trip to Farmington on Tuesday, the 28th, we spent the rest of the time at the campground on
the lake.
….to be continued!
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